Best Automatic RV Leveling Systems for Class A Motorhomes

By Jake Morris — RV Gear Expert & Contributing Editor· June 11, 2026· 12 min read

Written by Jake Morris Senior RV Gear Writer at ShopRVGear

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Jake has spent 8 years full-timing in a Class A motorhome and has personally tested hundreds of RV products across North America. He is the lead gear reviewer at Shop RV Gear, covering solar setups, backup safety syst…

8 yrs experience·Last updated: Jun 11, 2026

Short answer

If you own a Class A motorhome, the best automatic leveling systems are full hydraulic, 4‑point or 6‑point kits from established OEM suppliers like Lippert (Power Gear / Level Up), HWH, and Equalizer Systems (EQ Smart‑Level).[9][7] These systems are strong enough for the weight of a Class A, recover better on uneven pads, and integrate cleanly with your coach’s electrical system.[9] For most Class A gas rigs, a pre‑engineered hydraulic kit like the EQ Smart‑Level Class A Gas Motorhome system is the best balance of power, speed, and ease of use.[7] If you already have factory‑installed Power Gear or HWH jacks, the smartest “upgrade” is usually to maintain and repair that system rather than bolt on a lighter aftermarket electric kit.[9]

The rest of this guide walks through the main systems you’ll actually see on Class A coaches, how they differ, and which ones are worth your money.

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How automatic RV leveling systems work on Class A motorhomes

Class A coaches almost always use frame‑mounted jacks and some form of automatic controller to level front‑to‑back and side‑to‑side.[1][9]

There are two main technologies:

• Hydraulic leveling systems (most common on Class A)
• Electric / mechanical stabilizer systems (more common on smaller rigs)

According to SnapPad’s leveling system overview, large motorhomes typically use hydraulic 4‑point or 6‑point systems (e.g., Lippert Power Gear) because they offer high lifting capacity and strong stabilization for heavy Class A coaches.[9]

Hydraulic vs electric: which is right for a Class A?

For a full‑size Class A, a hydraulic system is the correct tool in nearly all cases.[9] Electric stabilizers can help with wobble but aren’t a substitute for real leveling on a 25,000–40,000 lb coach.

Key buying considerations for Class A automatic leveling

Before we get into brands, it helps to know what actually matters on a Class A:

1. Weight rating and jack count

   • Confirm the system is rated for your coach’s GVWR (gross vehicle weight rating). Class A rigs can push 30,000+ lb; you do not want undersized jacks.[9]
   • 4‑point systems (one jack near each corner) are common on Class A; some heavier coaches use 6‑point for extra stability.[9]

2. Hydraulic pump and line routing

   • Look for a system designed specifically for Class A gas or diesel chassis (e.g., Ford F‑53, Freightliner) so brackets and line routing are tested and documented.[7]

3. Auto‑level controller quality

   • Better systems use multi‑axis sensors and logic that minimizes wheel lift so you’re less likely to have a tire hanging in the air.[5][9]
   • Some offer Bluetooth app control, making it easier to fine‑tune from outside the coach.[7]

4. Serviceability and support

   • With Class A hydraulic systems, support matters more than fancy marketing. Look for brands that have parts diagrams, phone tech support, and wide dealer coverage.[9]
   • HWH, Lippert/Power Gear, and Equalizer Systems all have established service networks.[9][7]

5. Integration with your existing coach

   • Many Class A motorhomes leave the factory with a specific brand (e.g., HWH or Lippert Power Gear).[9]
   • If you’re replacing or upgrading, staying with the same platform often saves money and headaches.

6. Site limitations

   • Even the best system can’t defy physics. Owners on Class A forums report that on very sloped sites, auto‑level will lift wheels off the ground or reach jack stroke limits, and blocks/ramps are still required.[1][3][8]
   • Your goal is a system that handles normal site slopes easily, and which you know how to “help” with blocks when things get extreme.[3][8]

Best automatic leveling systems for Class A motorhomes

Below are the systems you’re most likely to encounter or consider on a Class A. Pricing and exact kit contents vary by coach and installer, so treat the price comments as relative tiers, not fixed numbers.

1. EQ Smart‑Level Hydraulic Leveling System (Equalizer Systems) – Best overall for Class A gas

Equalizer Systems’ EQ Smart‑Level kit for Class A gas motorhomes is a full 4‑point hydraulic leveling system with an intelligent controller and optional smartphone control.[7]

Equalizer offers model‑specific kits designed for Class A gas chassis (like Ford F‑53) and travel trailers, with matched brackets, hydraulic components, and wiring.[7] The Smart‑Level controller uses a 3‑axis accelerometer to automatically level the coach with a single button press.[7]

Why it’s my top pick for most Class A gas coaches

• Designed specifically for Class A gas motorhomes, so you’re not hacking a fifth‑wheel kit onto a different chassis.[7]
• Proven hydraulic power with robust jacks suitable for heavy rigs.[7]
• App‑enabled control via Bluetooth lets you monitor and fine‑tune from outside, which is genuinely useful when watching jack pads and blocks.[7]
• Equalizer has a long track record with OEM and aftermarket installations, plus service support in the U.S.[7]

Pros

• Purpose‑built kits for Class A gas chassis – brackets and plumbing are engineered, not improvised[7]
• One‑touch automatic leveling with gyroscopic sensor[7]
• Hydraulic jacks offer fast, strong lifting and excellent campsite stability[7]
• Optional smartphone control for convenience[7]
• Widely used in the industry, so parts and tech help are easier to find[7]

Cons

• Professional installation is strongly recommended, which adds cost
• Hydraulic systems require periodic maintenance (fluid, seals, checking for leaks)
• Not every installer is equally familiar with Equalizer vs Lippert; shop around for experience

Best for:
Class A gas motorhome owners wanting a serious hydraulic system with modern controls, especially if your coach did not come with factory jacks or you’re replacing a worn‑out electric stabilizer setup.

2. Lippert / Power Gear Hydraulic Leveling Systems – Best for factory‑equipped and diesel pushers

Lippert’s Power Gear hydraulic leveling systems are widely used by major coach builders, including on large Class A diesel and gas rigs.[9] According to SnapPad’s system overview, Power Gear uses 4‑point hydraulic cylinders plus a central pump and control panel designed to stabilize even very large motorhomes.[9]

If your Class A already came with Power Gear jacks, the smartest move is usually to repair and refresh that system rather than ripping it out.[9]

What stands out

• Designed from the ground up to handle big Class A coaches, both gas and diesel.[9]
• Integrated into many OEM builds, which means parts availability, documentation, and support are relatively good.[9]
• Different control options – from basic auto‑level pads to more advanced interfaces depending on model and year.[9]

Pros

• High capacity hydraulic jacks appropriate for Class A weight[9]
• Common OEM system; lots of owners and techs know how to work on it[9]
• Good parts support through Lippert’s network[9]
• Generally fast leveling and solid campsite feel[9]

Cons

• Controller logic and interface vary by vintage; older panels can feel dated
• Like all hydraulics, can develop leaks or sticky valves and need periodic attention
• Converting to Power Gear from a different platform can be costly; better as a repair/upgrade path if you already have it

Best for:
Owners of Class A motorhomes already equipped with Power Gear who want reliable automatic leveling and are willing to keep the hydraulic system maintained.

3. HWH Hydraulic Leveling Systems – Best long‑term durability and support

HWH is another major player in Class A hydraulic leveling and slideout systems. Many higher‑end Class A coaches (especially older diesel pushers) use HWH hydraulic jacks and controls from the factory.[9]

RV owners often choose to rebuild or update their HWH system rather than swap to a different brand because HWH supports even older systems with parts and detailed service information.[9]

Why HWH is still worth keeping

• HWH systems have a reputation for durability and long‑term support.
• The company provides technical documentation, schematics, and phone support, which is invaluable on older Class A rigs.[9]

Pros

• Proven on many large Class A diesel and gas coaches[9]
• Strong hydraulic jacks with appropriate weight capacity[9]
• Good factory tech support and documentation for troubleshooting[9]
• Some systems include automatic leveling; others can be upgraded with updated control boards/panels

Cons

• Interface and exact features vary heavily by age and model; some older systems are more manual
• Finding a shop that really understands HWH can be hit or miss depending on region
• New full‑system installs can be expensive; best as a keep/restore solution

Best for:
Owners of Class A motorhomes already running HWH hydraulics who want reliable automatic leveling over the long haul. In most cases, you’re better off servicing HWH than converting to a different brand.

4. Electric / Mechanical Stabilizer Systems – Only as supplemental on Class A

There are electric stabilizer systems (scissor or telescoping jacks driven by 12V motors) and electric auto‑level kits aimed more at travel trailers and smaller Class C rigs.[5][10]

These systems can help reduce rocking and bounce, but most are not engineered to lift and level a full Class A the way a hydraulic system can.[9]

Where they can still make sense

• As a supplement if your Class A has front/rear hydraulic jacks but feels squishy in the middle.
• On very light, shorter Class A gas rigs where the manufacturer approved an electric system from the factory.

Pros

• Usually lower cost than full hydraulic kits[5]
• Simpler mechanics, easier DIY replacement of individual jacks
• Reduce wobble and sway when walking around the coach[10]

Cons

• Many are not rated to lift a heavy Class A for actual leveling; they are stabilizers, not primary jacks[9]
• Slower and weaker than hydraulics
• Easier to overload or damage if used improperly

Best for:
Use only as designed. On most full‑size Class A motorhomes, electric stabilizer systems are not a replacement for a proper hydraulic leveling system.

What to skip (for Class A motorhomes)

Based on how Class A rigs are built and what long‑term owners report in forums and guides, you can safely skip:

1. Lightweight “auto‑level” kits aimed at trailers
   If a kit’s marketing shows mostly travel trailers, small fifth‑wheels, or Class C rigs and does not list Class A weight ratings or chassis compatibility, it’s likely under‑spec’d for a large motorhome.[5][10]

2. Stabilizers marketed as leveling systems
   Many electric stabilizers reduce rocking but are not intended to lift the coach. On a heavy Class A, using them to “level” can bend frames or cause failure.[9]

3. Any system without clear GVWR and jack ratings
   A Class A is not the place for guessing. You want published ratings that exceed your actual loaded weight.

4. Random one‑off brands with limited support
   Hydraulic systems eventually need seals, fluid, or sensors. Stick with brands that have parts catalogs and support channels.

Real‑world usage tips for automatic leveling on Class A coaches

Even the best system won’t fix bad technique. Both manufacturer guides and experienced RVers repeat the same core advice:[1][3][8][10]

1. Start with the best spot you can

• Try to park with your front end downhill when possible on a Class A.[1]
  This lets the jacks raise the front rather than the rear, reducing the chance of lifting rear wheels off the ground.[1]
• Before you tap “Auto Level,” eyeball how far out of level the site is and decide if you need blocks under tires to avoid lifting wheels in the air.[3]

2. Avoid lifting wheels completely off the ground

• Many experienced RVers treat wheels off the ground as a last resort.[1][3][8]
• Use plastic or wood blocks under tires so the jacks don’t have to lift as far, and so you can still chock the wheels for safety.[3][10]

3. Use blocks under jack feet on soft or hot surfaces

• On soft ground or hot asphalt, jack feet can sink in, which stresses the system and can put you out of level again.[1][10]
• Use jack pads or blocks under each jack to spread the load and prevent damage to the site.[1][10]

4. Respect stroke limits and avoid over‑extension

• If a site is very unlevel, do not let a single jack extend to its full stroke while others barely touch.[3]
• Use blocks to share the lift and keep all jacks operating in their effective range.[3]

5. Keep batteries charged before using auto‑level

• Auto‑leveling uses the 12V system (and the hydraulic pump in many cases). If your batteries are weak, you may get incomplete movements or error codes.[3][10]

6. Follow your slide‑out and leveling sequence

• Some manufacturers require you to level first, then extend slides; others are the opposite. Check your owner’s manual or manufacturer guidance.[1]
• Doing it in the wrong order can bind slides or twist the frame.

Installation: DIY vs professional on Class A motorhomes

On a heavy Class A, a full hydraulic leveling system is usually not a casual DIY project.

• Hydraulic plumbing requires proper routing, secure fastening, and leak‑free connections.[7][9]
• Frame brackets must be installed in approved locations to avoid frame damage.
• The control panel and sensor must be mounted and calibrated correctly for accurate automatic leveling.[7][9]

For a brand‑new install or a brand conversion (e.g., adding EQ Smart‑Level to a jack‑less coach), professional installation by an RV shop familiar with Class A hydraulic systems is the safer and usually cheaper long‑term route.

However, many owners DIY service items like:

• Replacing jack seals or boots (when kits are available)
• Swapping a failed 12V solenoid or relay
• Replacing or cleaning sensors and control pads
• Flushing and refilling hydraulic fluid following the manufacturer’s procedure

If you’re comfortable with basic mechanical work and follow the brand’s service documentation, you can save money handling maintenance and minor repairs yourself while letting a shop handle major installs.

How to choose the right automatic leveling system for your Class A

Work through this sequence before buying anything:

1. Identify what you already have

   • Check your coach’s documentation or labels near the jacks and pump: are you running HWH, Lippert/Power Gear, Equalizer, or something else?[9]
   • If you already have a hydraulic system, price out repairing or updating it first; it’s often cheaper and better than a full replacement.

2. Match system to coach type

   • Class A gas on a Ford F‑53 or similar: consider a kit specifically sold for that chassis, like Equalizer’s Class A Gas Smart‑Level kit.[7]
   • Class A diesel pusher: likely best served by OEM‑style hydraulic systems (Power Gear or HWH) and keeping the factory platform healthy.[9]

3. Talk to at least two installers

   • Ask which systems they prefer to install and support on Class A motorhomes.
   • A shop that regularly installs a given brand (e.g., Equalizer or Lippert) is more valuable than a shop that will “try anything once.”

4. Plan for ongoing maintenance

   • Budget time and money for fluid checks, occasional seal work, and sensor recalibration.
   • Add jack pads and leveling blocks to your shopping list; even auto‑level systems work better with them.[1][10]

Frequently Asked Questions

Do I really need an automatic leveling system on a Class A motorhome?

You can level manually using blocks under the tires and manual jack controls, but on a heavy Class A, an automatic hydraulic system makes setup faster, more consistent, and safer when used correctly.[1][9] For frequent travelers or full‑timers, it’s one of the most worthwhile upgrades.

Can I install an automatic leveling system myself on a Class A?

Basic owners with good mechanical skills can handle maintenance and some component replacement, but a full hydraulic system install on a Class A is usually better left to professionals due to the weight of the coach, hydraulic safety concerns, and the need for proper bracket and line routing.[7][9]

Is it safe if my Class A’s wheels come off the ground when auto‑leveling?

Most manufacturers and experienced RVers recommend avoiding wheels completely off the ground when possible, especially rear wheels, because it can reduce stability and strain components.[1][3][8] Use blocks under tires or reposition the coach so the system doesn’t need to lift that far.

Should I level before or after putting my slides out?

It depends on your motorhome. Some Class A owners’ manuals specify level first, then slides, while others call for slides first.[1] Follow the guidance for your specific coach to avoid twisting the frame or binding the slide mechanisms.

How much slope can an automatic leveling system handle?

There’s no single number because it depends on jack stroke length, coach weight, and site conditions.[8] Class A owners report that moderate slopes are fine with auto‑level, but very unlevel sites may require blocks under tires and jack feet, or choosing a different spot to avoid running jacks to their limits.[3][8]

All Picks & Comparison

#		Product	Price	Rating
#1		RAREELECTRICAL 12V Ccw Hydraulic Pump Motor Compatible With 2015-2017 Power Gear Lippert Rv Leveling System Fleetwood Monaco 3510000161 501090 501234 Iskra 11-212-440 800302	$204.71	★★★★★ (60)	View on Amazon
#2		Lippert Aluminum Hydraulic Leveling Jack Assembly with 14,000-lb. Weight Capacity, Universal Fit, 9" Footpad, Easy Installation - 2365601	$728.75	★★★★☆ (38)	View on Amazon
#3		Lippert Level Up Aluminum RV Hydraulic Leveling Jack with 8,000-lb. Lift Capacity, Universal Fit, 9" Footpad, Easy Installation - 433458	$618.01	★★★★★ (48)	View on Amazon
#4		LogicBlue Technology LevelMatePRO Wireless RV Leveling System, Bluetooth Leveler for Campers, Must-Have Accessory for Travel Trailers, Effortless Setup for Phones with App	$99.98	★★★★★ (6,565)	View on Amazon